Complete Guide

Parquet & Laminate Flooring

Lay parquet or laminate flooring correctly — from moisture testing and acclimatisation through to expansion gaps and skirting boards.

AcclimatisationExpansion gapImpact underlayFloating floorAcoustic requirements

Material Types

Solid hardwood parquet

Solid timber, 18–22 mm thick. Can often be sanded several times. Installed by glue-down or nailing depending on the system. Usually requires longer acclimatisation.

Lifespan: depends on use, maintenance and product

Engineered parquet

3–5 layer construction with a timber wear layer. More dimensionally stable than solid wood. Can be floated, glued or fixed in accordance with the manufacturer’s system.

Lifespan: depends on wear layer, use and maintenance

Laminate

HDF core with a decorative layer and durable surface. Often the most affordable and easiest to install. Usually installed as a floating floor. Cannot be sanded.

Lifespan: depends on wear class, use and product

Installation Methods

Method	Suitable for	Advantages	Disadvantages
Floating (click-lock)	Laminate, engineered parquet	Easiest for DIY, can be removed	May creak; maximum room/run dimensions before transition or expansion profiles are product-dependent
Glue-down	Solid parquet, engineered parquet	Stable, no creaking	Permanent, requires dry concrete
Secret nail / staple	Solid parquet on timber joists	Traditional and durable	Requires timber subfloor or battens

Subfloor, Moisture & Acclimatisation

Moisture Requirements (product-dependent)

Concrete slab: acceptable residual moisture depends on the floor type, adhesive system and the manufacturer's installation instructions. Always verify the product requirements before installation
With underfloor heating: surface temperature and residual moisture must follow the manufacturer's installation requirements. For many wood floors in Scandinavian practice, a maximum surface temperature of 27°C is common, but this is system- and product-dependent
Use an appropriate measurement method in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, for example RH testing or CM testing where required
New concrete must both cure and dry to the level required by the flooring manufacturer before installation. Timing varies with slab thickness, climate and construction moisture

Acclimatisation

Leave packs unopened in the room for 48–72 hours (solid parquet: longer)
Room temperature: 18–22°C
Relative humidity in room: 30–60% RH
Important: wood moves with humidity — acclimatisation minimises movement after installation

Underlay Types

Type	Thickness	ΔLw (impact sound)	Notes
PE foam	2–3 mm	typically manufacturer-declared	Simple solution; actual acoustic performance depends on the full construction
Cork	3–10 mm	typically manufacturer-declared	Natural material; actual acoustic performance depends on the full construction
Combination (foam + foil)	2–5 mm	typically manufacturer-declared	Common solution where the manufacturer requires an integrated vapour barrier
Premium acoustic underlay	5–10 mm	typically manufacturer-declared	Often improves comfort and impact sound, but final performance depends on the construction

💡

Acoustic requirements between separate dwellings must be assessed against local building regulations and documented floor constructions. Within a single private home the same statutory requirements often do not apply, but a good underlay can still improve comfort. Always check local requirements and the manufacturer's documentation.

Expansion Gap

Wood and laminate expand and contract with changes in humidity. Without a expansion gapⓘexpansion gapA free zone around the perimeter of the floor that allows the flooring to expand and contract without buckling. Covered by the skirting board. the floor will buckle or push up against walls.

Situation	Gap
Normal installation, summer / stable RH	10 mm is common, but always follow the flooring manufacturer's specification
Winter installation / low RH (< 40%)	8 mm may be used where supported by the product guidance
Humid period / RH above 60%	12 mm may be appropriate where supported by the product guidance
Solid parquet, wide boards (> 120 mm)	12–15 mm
All walls, pipe penetrations, fixed installations	8–12 mm
Door frames and transitions (run > 8 m)	Transition strip (T-mould)

⚠️

Never fill the expansion gap with silicone or filler — it must remain open for movement. Skirting boards cover the gap but must be fixed to the wall only, never to the floor itself.

Waste & Ordering

Laying Pattern	Waste	Notes
Straight (parallel to wall)	5–8%	Standard, simplest to lay
Diagonal (45°)	10–15%	More off-cuts at corners
Herringbone pattern	12–18%	Demanding, many short pieces
Room with many cut-outs	+5%	Pipe penetrations, alcoves

💡

Always order from the same production batch (same lot number) to avoid colour variation. Keep one spare pack for future repairs.

Step by Step

Remove old floor covering, nails and skirting boards
Test moisture content in concrete — allow to dry further if needed
Fill hollows with self-levelling compound — subfloor max 3 mm deviation per 1.8 m
Grind down high spots with a disc grinder
Ensure the room is 18–22°C for at least 48 hours before installation

Leave packs in the room for 48–72 hours
Plan the laying direction — usually parallel to the longest wall or towards the main light source
Dry-lay the first row without adhesive — check you will end with at least half a board width at the far wall
Mark a centre line if needed for a symmetrical layout

Roll out underlay perpendicular to the laying direction
Tape joints with manufacturer-approved tape
Where required by the product system, turn the vapour barrier or underlay slightly up the wall and trim after the floor is complete. Always follow the underlay manufacturer's instructions
Do not overlap — butt edges together

Start along the longest, straightest wall
Insert spacers (8–12 mm) against all walls
Click rows together left to right, staggering end joints by at least 300 mm between rows
Last row: measure and cut — use a pull bar to press into place
Undercut door casings with a multi-tool or hand saw

Remove all spacers
Fix skirting boards to the wall — never to the floor. Use a suitable fixing method for the wall type and the skirting manufacturer's instructions
Fit transition strips in doorways between rooms
Fit threshold strips at junctions with tiles, other flooring types, etc.
Check the floor floats freely — no spacers or fixings restricting movement

Common Mistakes

Calculate Flooring Materials

Enter your room dimensions and laying pattern — the calculator works out m² of flooring, underlay and skirting boards including waste.

Open Flooring Calculator

Frequently asked questions

How much waste should I add for flooring?

Straight installation: 5–10%. Diagonal installation: 15–20%. Always buy 10% extra to keep for future repairs.

Do I need underlayment under laminate flooring?

Yes. Most laminate and LVP requires underlayment for sound reduction, moisture protection and minor subfloor leveling. Some products have underlayment pre-attached.

What is the difference between solid hardwood and engineered hardwood?

Solid hardwood is 100% wood and can be sanded and refinished many times. Engineered hardwood has a real wood veneer over plywood — more stable against moisture and temperature swings, and can be installed below grade.

References

→ NWFA — National Wood Flooring Association installation guidelines
→ Pergo — laminate and LVP installation guides
→ Boen — engineered hardwood technical information and installation guides
→ Flooring manufacturer technical data sheets — acclimation times, adhesive requirements and subfloor tolerances vary by product

Waste percentages and pack coverage are indicative. Always confirm pack m² with your supplier before ordering. Last reviewed: May 2026