Lawn & Turf
Whether you are laying turf rolls for instant results or sowing grass seed on a budget, this guide covers ground preparation, installation, and what to buy.
Turf rolls vs grass seed
Turf rolls
- ✓ Instant lawn from day one
- ✓ Usable in 6–8 weeks
- ✓ Reliable in any season (except frozen)
- ✓ Better for sloped areas (seed washes away)
- ✗ 5–10× more expensive than seed
- ✗ Must be laid within 24–48 hours of delivery
Grass seed
- ✓ 5–10× cheaper than turf
- ✓ Easier to store, no urgency
- ✓ Better species choice
- ✗ 4–8 weeks to establish
- ✗ Needs daily watering in dry periods
- ✗ Birds eat seed; cats dig it up
Best times to lay turf or sow seed
How to prepare the ground
Clear the area
Remove all existing vegetation, stones, and roots. For a complete new lawn, rotovate or dig the soil to 200–300 mm — 8–12 in — depth to break up compaction. It is worth checking your soil type and pH first (a cheap test kit is fine) — grass prefers a slightly acidic to neutral pH, and the result tells you whether to work in organic matter, lime or other amendments before you start.
For small areas, a fork and hoe is sufficient. For areas over 50 m² (540 sq ft), hiring a rotovator for a day saves significant effort.
Improve drainage (if needed)
If the area is prone to waterlogging, improve the soil structure — but be careful with clay: forking a small amount of sand into heavy clay can actually set it harder, so it only helps in large, correctly specified quantities. For heavy clay the more reliable fixes are working in plenty of organic matter and dealing with drainage (e.g. land drains or a graded fall) where water genuinely sits. On lighter soils, coarse/sharp sand plus organic matter mixed through the top layer helps.
Add topsoil
Spread 100–150 mm (4–6 in) of good-quality topsoil. Level and rake smooth, removing stones and clods. The finished level should be 30 mm — about 1¼ in — below path edges to allow for the turf thickness.
Compact lightly
Walk across the area in overlapping rows (the 'shuffle walk') to find soft spots. Fill and re-level as needed. The soil should be firm but not hard-packed — you want to leave a very faint footprint.
Lay turf or sow seed
Turf rolls: Lay in a brick-bond pattern (staggered joints). Butt rolls tight together with no gaps. Cut with a sharp spade or bread knife at edges. Water immediately and every day for 2–3 weeks.
Seed: Sow at the recommended rate on the packaging (typically 30–50 g/m²). Rake in lightly. Water gently with a fine rose. Keep moist until established — do not let it dry out.
Turf is perishable. It must be laid within 24 hours of delivery in summer (48 hours in cool weather). If you cannot lay it immediately, unroll and water it in a shaded area. Never leave it rolled in direct sun.
The schedule below is a starting point, but water to conditions rather than the calendar: the goal is to keep the soil under the turf consistently moist (not soggy) until it roots down. As a guide, water daily for the first ~2 weeks (mornings are best), then every couple of days for weeks 3–4 — but water more in hot, dry or windy weather, and skip it after good rain. Lift a corner of turf to check the soil moisture.
For a lawn path, lay stepping stones flush with the lawn level before laying turf or after seeding. Stones should be 5 mm (¼ in) below grass level so the mower can pass over them. Use 400–600 mm — 16–24 in — centre-to-centre spacing for a natural stride.
Wait until the grass reaches 75 mm (3 inches). Set the mower to its highest setting for the first 2–3 cuts. Never remove more than one third of the blade length in a single cut — this stresses newly established roots.
Calculate turf & topsoil
Enter your lawn area to calculate m² of turf rolls, m³ of topsoil, and total cost.
Tools you'll need
The kit this job actually calls for, and whether it's worth buying or renting for one weekend.
- Rake
Levelling the seedbed is most of the work.
Buy 15–35 € - Wheelbarrow
A builder's barrow with a pneumatic tyre, not a garden one.
Buy 50–120 € - Shovel and spade
A square shovel for mixing and moving, a spade for digging.
Buy 15–40 €
Prices are indicative for DIY-grade tools and vary a lot by brand and region — treat them as a budgeting starting point, not a quote. Rental rates are per day from a typical tool rental shop.
When this is one job of several
A new lawn is levelling, topsoil and edging before any seed or turf arrives. A calculator answers one of those at a time. If you are planning the whole thing, the numbers are worth keeping together — every part of it against one total, and that total against what you have actually spent.
More on how these work: the floor planner, estimating materials, keeping a project, and pricing a job.
Frequently asked questions
Turf rolls or grass seed — which is better?
Turf rolls give instant results and are more reliable in areas with foot traffic. Seed is 5–10x cheaper but takes 4–8 weeks to establish and fails in dry spells unless you water daily.
When is the best time to lay turf or sow seed?
Both: April–May or August–September. Avoid midsummer (too dry) and midwinter (frozen ground, no growth). Turf can be laid year-round except when ground is frozen or waterlogged.
How deep should topsoil be?
Minimum 100 mm for a healthy lawn. 150 mm is better if your existing soil is poor (clay-heavy or sandy). Anything less and the grass will struggle in dry periods.
When can I walk on new turf?
Light walking: after 2–3 weeks. Normal use: after 6–8 weeks. Avoid mowing until the grass is at least 75 mm high and roots have knitted into the soil.
How many turf rolls do I need per m²?
Standard rolls are 1 m × 0.33 m = 0.33 m² each. Add 5–10% for cutting around edges. Our calculator handles this with the waste percentage field.
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Turn this guide into a plan
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