Fences
A fence stands or falls on its posts — and occasionally on the relationship with your neighbour. The rules that decide both, in plain language. For the full build sequence, see the step-by-step fence guide.
Posts & Foundations
Dig below frost depth
Don't set posts shallow
Pick the right foundation for the job
Don't concrete the post bottom in
Use UC4 (ground-contact) treated posts
Don't use interior or UC3 timber in the ground
Neighbours & Rules
Confirm the boundary and talk first
Don't guess the property line
Brace gate posts properly
Don't hang a gate on a standard post
Fences as Fall Protection & Glass
Treat guard fences as safety builds
Don't use climbable designs at a drop
Use certified safety glass in real clamps
Don't improvise with glass
Draw Your Fence, Count Every Post
Trace your boundary in the Home Planner — posts, boards, concrete bags and screws are counted from the actual drawn line, corners included.
Frequently asked questions
Why do fence posts lean after a few winters?
Almost always frost heave from posts set too shallow, or water collecting in the post hole. Set posts below local frost depth with gravel in the base of the hole, and taper the concrete to shed water.
Concrete or steel spikes for fence posts?
Concrete for fences over 1.2 m, gates and windy sites. Steel spikes suit low, light fences in firm soil — and keep the post out of soil contact so it can’t rot at the base.
Can I build a fence on the boundary line?
Rules vary. Confirm the legal boundary from the title plan first, and either keep the fence on your own side or make a written agreement with your neighbour. A fence that encroaches can legally have to be removed.
Can any fence act as fall protection?
No. A fence guarding a drop of roughly 0.5 m or more is a guard rail: at least ~1.0 m high, non-climbable infill with gaps under ~100 mm, and impact-rated fixing. Have it verified by a qualified builder.